When US Americans arrived in Cuba during the war against the Spanish at the end of the 19th century they were shocked by the filthy and inhumane conditions they found. Contemporary reports from journalists and army command led to the mission being extended in order to spread a bit of civilizing influence to the Cubans.
I think travelling to Engabao gave me some insight into how they must have felt. The village is an area of mud with houses erected on top. There are almost no plants, no trees, no flowers. There are lots of pigs roaming the streets. I formed this impression a few years ago and when I returned on Saturday it was exactly the same.
On the previous visit we’d found the beach (Playa Paraíso) almost empty although it was a busy holiday and Playas was rammed. The majority of villagers live from fishing but it seemed crazy that they couldn’t take advantage of their beautiful natural advantage when there is a paved road, a frequent bus service to Playas and they are less than 2 hours from Guayaquil.
Now things are a little bit different down at the beach. At the back up against the rock wall a line of thatched cabins have been erected to sell drinks and fresh fish and seafood meals with simple but clean shower blocks. In front there was another line of gazebos and deckchairs and that still left plenty of sand to play on, more so with the tide out like yesterday.
The sea was pretty calm but it’s not always the case. The area has been popular with surfers for many years. At the end of the afternoon we drove along to Puerto Engabao, a few kilometers further along the coast. Most days about 400 fishing boats set out from here. We’d seen most of them leaving at about 5pm, simple little boats with an outboard motor, open to the elements, manned by two guys, bumping along the waves to their favoured spot way beyond the horizon to the south-east. I did notice that the boats looked perfectly maintained with bright colourful designs, so the people clearly have pride in that.
In the port there were just a few boats and women and kids left, plus a few optimistic surfers who were struggling to even bodyboard. Up above the rocks we discovered that this place had received a bit of outside help, from Fundación Nobis, the charitable arm of a big Ecuadorian company. It had helped people to finance improvements to their houses (with a World Bank loan) and to set up a community stay program called Casa Surf so that 16 houses have rooms which they rent out to visitors (mainly surfers obviously). You can rent boards, there are a few places to eat and there are a few plants and flowers growing outside the houses.
I don’t want to exaggerate – it’s not a quaint little village, but it is nice enough. The people are really friendly and you can feel that they care. Best of all, the beach stretches on for miles in both directions so you can get away from the harbor and find your own spot.
I spoke to Martha Pinele, owner of one the hospedarías close to the lighthouse above the harbor. She showed me photos of all the guests who had stayed in her place over the last two years and said she was really happy with how things were working out for her.
I’ve never been convinced of the benefits of nation building and loans but maybe this small scale helping hand can make a permanent difference. Hopefully the people of the other Engabao, who must all travel to the port to get their fishing boats, can see a way to improve their village and benefit from tourism.
Travel and Live in Ecuador 